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lainchan archive - /diy/ - 742

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>Cyberpunk based website
>No electronics thread

Shame on you, opening an Electronics General, feel free to share your projects, what you've been working on, etc.
Let's get this board going.


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OP here, my last serious project has been this capacitor charger, pretty powerful, can charge them up to ~400V. Ideal for coilguns, close contact EMP devices...

I have videos and detailed instructions about how to make one if someone is interested.

Now I'm pretty busy and I haven't done much recently. I just finished setting up my LED strip lighting, much better than the fluorescent desk lamp I used to have.
Also, getting a new oscilloscope in no time.


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I'm also interested in high voltages and flyback transformers, if you have any question please ask.


>I have videos and detailed instructions about how to make one if someone is interested.
I for one would love to see how you went about making that!
Could you do a write-up for the magazine?


Did you make the holed board yourself?
Seems easier to make than a PCB, I take it you solder the components with eachother in the back/down side?


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I'm a bit stalled right now, but there are some other projects, like high voltage generators. I was planning to make a hoodie with taser sleeves, maybe this summer.
>Could you do a write-up for the magazine?
Pardon my ignorance, I'm new here, is there a magazine? In that case I wouldn't mind to contribute.

They are called perf boards, or prototype boards, I bought it at an electronics store nearby. At the other side of each hole there's a copper pad to solder the components and then make the necessary connections.
This is how it looks underneath, this one looks pretty lame because, but you get the idea.

PCB's are not really worth it for me, it takes me quite a lot of time to design them in Eagle, and then the toner transfer method isn't always reliable, specially if the cartridge isn't full. Maybe I'll move on to more advanced circuit printing techniques when I need to make more complex circuits. It is only worth it if you want to make copies of the same circuit.


Sorry, I finally found it. This is great, definitely worth a read.
I even feel like watering down it's content by contributing, but I'll try my best if I have to.
I still have a lot to learn, experts in the field would find many flaws and ways to improve my circuits.


There are several people into electronics on lainchan (including me), that can help you with errors on lainchan.org/irc if you need some help


I don't usually bother other people unless it's completely necessary, but thanks for your help. I intend to make lots of progress this summer, I'm getting new equipment and tools to do so. I'll be around for a while.
Also, please excuse my English, I'm not a native speaker.


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Just finished installing this LED strips, I've even made a brightness regulator. They're much better than the flimsy lamp I've been using all along.
There's nothing else here because I havent moved all my junk yet.


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If anyone is interested, here's the circuit, the 2222 and MOSFET part was taken from a flyback driver, so it might be wise to increase the value of the 330 and 100 Ohm resistances to make the circuit more efficient.
I didn't had a 50k pot, so I ended using a 100k with a 10nF capacitor.
I don't really think that cap is useful, maybe with limited current supplies so energy can be stored during the off state of the dimmer and released afterwards relieving some strain.


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If anyone is interested about the source of that picture, it's from a guy who usually posts in 4chan's diy board. He also posts about his projects, which are quite interesting. An amazing workspace.


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Sorry for making some kind of blog out of this thread since I'm the only one who is posting here, anyway...
I bought a 25W supply for the LEDs for 8€, the one I was using is too old and the voltage varies from 15 to 12.3 depending on the current, which only goes up to 1Amp, I guess it's a transformer-rectifier-capacitor type since it's quite old and it gets very hot. This new one seems much more efficient and will allow me to add a third or even a fourth strip for extra light.

I'll show the completed circuit today if I can finish it in time and I find a nice enclosure to attach to the wall.


You should write an article for the lainzine about getting into electronics


I second this inquiry.


I'm reading the thread at /lit/, English isn't my first language, but I'll try my best. I think it would be nice to have a couple of electronic projects with standard components that people can make and understand to learn about it.
>You should write an article for the lainzine about getting into electronics
I got in in a quite conventional way, although I actively work on my own. I'll try to see what can be done, but I don't think I should give advice about this since I think I don't think have enough experience apart from the hobbyist/student level.


Seconding this. I bought some electronics things awhile ago but wasn't able to get myself into it correctly. I'd love to hear some tips.


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I have several exams before holidays, I'll be quite busy this week and maybe the following one too. I've seen the next number is nearly complete, I hope to be able to finish in time.
I finished the LED lighting, I finally have a decent illumination here.
I didn't wanted the regulator to waste power when at full brightness (even though it just wastes ~0.25W + 0.11W dissipated by the MOSFET in the worst case, it is somewhat insignificant), in a fit of OCD I added a switch to be able to choose between full power and regulated power. I had to modify the regulator and now it doesn't seems to work properly, I can regulate the brightness halfway up to full power, this must mean there isn't enough current so I know I'm losing lots of current somewhere else, but I don't want to fix it now, so I'll use the full power mode until I have time to fix it.

I used a bipolar switch for the connection of the grid to the PSU, then I connected +12V to the center pin of a switch, one way let's pass all the current though the LEDs, the other way gives 12 volts to the regulator which powers the LEDs, after modifying the circuit the MOSFET acts as an output rather than as a sink of current, I did this to use just one switch.
The first thing I did when I got the PSU was to plug it in and check for abnormal readings with the multimeter. In this case the output was 11.2, luckily there was a variable resistor to control the output voltage and I was able to bring it up to 12, it was gunked so I almost destroy it in order to change the resistance.
Another thing I've learnt is the resistivity of the tracks that run parallel down the strip to power the LEDs seems to be a bit high, measuring the voltage at the beginning of the strip gives me around 12 volts, but after the voltage has decreased 0.17V, even though I connected the three stips in parallel to avoid this.


You mean the LEDs are all powered in parallel off of the power track that's running alongside them, so that you don't need to put like (Vf) * (# of LEDs) = (Hi-Voltage) into the strip to get through all of them? And it's that power track which has so much voltage drop?


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The strip is all in parallel, I mean, there are two tracks running parallel at the sides which power the LEDs. But if I cut the strip into pieces I can connect the pieces in series (as it was before) or in parallel, this means paralleling those tracks.

I know I haven't made myself clear, so I made this. Since the tracks are slim and there's some current flowing through them the voltage keeps falling as it reaches the end, paralleling the strips makes all the strips to use the same power and increase the brightness a bit.


I started with electronics a few weeks ago.
I'm thinking in do this:


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555 timers are a must-have, they have lots of different applications.
Try to combine it with a counter, like the 4017. Counters basically "count" the number of pulses switching on one of their outputs at a time, you can make an 8bit synth with it for example.



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I finally finished my exams, I can start writing now.
Getting into electronics, got it, I'll write about that, but you should take my advice with a grain of salt since I'm still quite new.
I was thinking of doing a series of articles make readers familiar with the basics of electronics so it's easier for them to get into the world, ohm's law, basic definitions, electronic components like transistors, capacitors or inductors, circuits...

>Part 1:

-Short intro (a bit of rambling) about electronics
-Getting into electronics: Indispensable tools and things you might need to know
>Part 2:
Theory: Ohm's law and power dissipation (Too easy?)
Component:(Theory and uses): Resistor ¿Transistor? ¿LED and diodes? ¿Capacitor? ¿Inductors? (often related to theory)
Forgotten technology: Maybe I'll add a subsection about dying or obsolete tech that is no longer in use (e.g: vacuum tubes, magnetic core memory, vacuum fluorescent displays...) I find this quite interesting.
>Part 3:
Circuit: A circuit so the reader can apply the concepts

The main issue I see with this is the first articles will be quite simple and obvious for a mildly versed reader. I was thinking about including the transistor because the resistor is a very simple component and adding it would fill an entire page at least while pleasing more advanced readers, since I'm quite worried about watering down the content and diminishing the overall quality, also if I only explain a component at a time it would take many publications to have a general idea, and at this rate I don't want to do it.
If I include the transistor I may include the LED diode and diodes as well to make a circuit with all those components. I guess all this would occupy several pages, probably more than the average article.

The last thing I was wondering about is how should I handle it, I guess I'll write a word with double column with similar format and looks and handle the pdf.
Excuse my english, it's not my first language, I'll probably advice the editor to take a quick read just in case...
Let me know what do you think please.


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im trying to fix an old keyboard, the board got damaged, the copper pads are ripped off, so i will make the schematic in kicad and rebuild the whole thing in a protoboard for testing, if everything works fine i will make the pcb, also the plastic connector from the sheets are ruined, it's impossible to get FCC conector over here.


Neat, glad to see it being saved from ending in the trash, that's a lot of work but seems to be worth it.
I wasn't losing current, the LEDs were dimmer because I connected the MOSFET the wrong way, normally the MOSFET should be connected as the picture shows, if you connect the MOSFET before the LED strip the voltage difference won't be enough to activate it correctly, or at least that's what I understood. Now the IRF540 works just fine, with no noticeable change when shorted at full brightness, it doesn't gets too hot even though it's switching around 1.5 Amps.
The 555 was getting too hot, I guessed this was because the resistance at the output was was too low, I changed the 100R resistor by a 1k and now it works just as fine with no noticeable change in brightness, maybe I'll also change the 330R by a bigger value, since there is an average current of 18mA going down the 2222 and maybe it isn't necessary to have that much current flowing to charge the gate of the MOSFET, when I have the oscilloscope I'll measure the frequency to calculate how big the resistor should be to ensure the gate gets charged, that way I'll save some power.
The only problem now is the supply seems to hiss when the brightness is brought to its minimum.


Holy dicks, would it kill you to boot something up to make a decent schematic?


I didn't make it, I took it from the internet, it's not my fault.


Want to give you a heads up on that i've already submitted a zine article about troubleshooting and fixing old electronic equipment. But more in depth about electronic parts, tools, ohms law and stuff would be awesome to add as a seperate article


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i will repost if necessary

anyone know if i can fix this soykaf


I haven't found much, but this made me laugh:
Probably the ribbon cable or something else is loose, try opening it and making an improvised wedge to press the ribbon against the connector or whatever.
I'll avoid talking about the same things, I don't know if I'll be able to submit it in time, but I'll try.


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Last and final version of the circuit before stuffing the thing in a box. The switch is to avoid power consumption by the regulator, there might be a better way around this.

For those expecting an article about starting in the world of electronics I have some links that might be useful, since I won't be able to write said article, at least not in time for the 2nd number.


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Working on two circuits, an EMP gun powered with a 3.7V lithium battery (when tuned it takes about 10 seconds to charge 200V 2000uF caps) and a heart beeper thing, powered by a 9V.
I'll post full instructions on how to make the EMP gun, maybe the heart thing too if I can get the board right...


I'm currently playing with a python neural net library (pybrain). Was thinking about using the GPIOs on a beaglebone as inputs to some network, but I can't think of any real use for it. Anybody has an idea?


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I haven't been able to break out a soldering iron much, but something I think might be pretty nice is a computer system built around a DSP as the main processor, in which main components are connected by a parallel bus that goes around in a simple loop on a double-sided PCP so they can be connected in series without having to worry about turns in the bus causing skew between channels. I dunno how much it makes sense but I figure it could be nice for having a machine that keeps real-time response to a lot of things, and I would the Harvard architecture aspect of it could be useful if you want to isolate things.

At left: artist's depiction


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Just posted this to Yotsuba"s /diy/, but thought maybe y'all could help me too.

Cloning an amplifier.
Only thing left to figure out is the power transformer.
Original company wrapped their own, so I'm trying to reverse deduce something compatible that will work.
Mains in, +-40 AC out (that's 80V with a center tap if I'm understanding this correctly).
The whole amp should pull 700W at `rated output'.

What does this mean for the transformer power rating? Does it need to be at least 700W[VA] as well?
Why is the rated current for the primary never specified? Is it always just assumed to be able to handle it based on the rating of the secondary?
If the secondary output is +-40V, is the current figured by 700W/40V because it's all AC or 700W/80V because that's the total potential?
More generally, does this imply a coil ratio of 3:1 (120:40/240:80) or 3:2 (120:80)?

Is Hammond the best transformer brand?
Is this way overkill or the one I should buy? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/182V40/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwUzoUXIIvyQPvPmwnNFGyC3HMAk3oIMg%3d

I've never built anything with a transformer like this before, and the real world way they do this is still confusing to me.
Just trying to make sense of it all.
Thank you for any help you can offer.


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Update - I'd forgot to consider that the ratings are RMS and not peak.
I think http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond/1182U30/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7tzTDjgBcipVOQ4OZkf5x4mtu2fnxels%3d might be the one I want.

60V center tapped will give me (* 30 (sqrt 2)) => 42.5V rails.
1000VA is well above my 700W requirement.
Current through each secondary should then be 11.7A - Well under the 16.7A rating.

Is all this right?
Pic related is what I'm trying for if that helps.


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Can anybody help me understand the current limit mode of this LT3750 chip?

I want to achieve constant current (not more than 2mA) at about 150V but not sure I understand how this is possible.

In my understanding, the feedback line will help the chip adjust Duty cycle depending on the voltage, how is that current related?

Or is it that my understanding of a flyback converter is broken?

There are 2 things to consider, frequency and duty cycle, is one or the other proportional to current and the other voltage?



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What? Needed more GPIOs...


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Doesnt work :<


What is soykaf?


Newlain detected.

It's a wordfilter on the word s.hit it comes from a cyb game called shadowrun


whidgle detected.


Well a neural net acts a control system, so anything you would like controlled by automation. What mechanical stuff are you interested in?

I'd like to try implementing neural nets in hardware, as the neurons themselves seem pretty simple: The weighting part would just be variable resistance, and a relay or Zener diode would perform the function of only activating when signal (either current or voltage) is high enough. Less obvious to me is the method of implementing an update function without having it controlled by microchip, which goes against the whole idea of using discreet components that can be made without clean rooms ( as I describe here >>1008 ).


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Well, I bought all the pieces guys.
Wish me luck.


Hope you have better luck than me!


How did it go?


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They haven't moved.
I actually prolly won't be able to really get to this for another few weeks.
I will of course keep you posted though.



Apparently Minsky made a thing pretty similar back in the 60's with vacuum tubes and motor-controlled resistors. I doubt he used any microprocessors/microcontrollers in his system. It was his thesis project, so it's probably not too hard to find the schematics.


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Hello fellow Lainons.
This isn't really a project I'm working on but more of a help request.

You see I was using my blender when it suddenly stopped working. And when it didn't work even after cooling down I tried opening it up and saw that yellow goo on some of the parts. After reading up on it I guess it might be some sort of silicon glue, maybe? I just assumed it might have melted because of the heat and short-circuited. It appears to be in contact only with the wire of the "D5" element (there were some other spills not visible in the pic).

So my questions are mainly:
Can I fix this?
What kind of element is this D5?

I should also say I have only a very basic electronics knowledge.
Will of course provide info/pics if somebody would like to help.


the big red thing looks like some sort of capacitor that's blown it's guts everywhere (as they do), if you can find it's rating then it should be easy to find a replacement. D5 is just an ordinary resistor, very unlikely that there's any issues with it. new parts should be very cheap.


I don't know anything about that particular chip but in general you can make a constant current source by just sticking a resistor between the "source" and "sense" inputs of a voltage regulator. Then it's just ohm's law to find voltage in terms of current or current in terms of voltage.
It could just be some glue. Electrolytics are the ones that get "interesting" when they get overloaded but that isn't one. My guess is whatever's under that heatsink (or something giving it input) is buggered. Also R5 is a resistor but D5 is clearly a diode.


Correction, D5 is a diode. It still looks fine.

It looks to me also as though that cap is not blown; it appears to be covered in glue. That appears to be a thin film capacitor, also called dielectric film or polymer film. They don't usually go as dramatically as electrolytic capacitors.

It may not be easy to fix, but also it may be. Do you have any tools at all? (multimeter? anything?)


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Yes I do have a multimeter (Mastech 1015B, analog), which I played with for the first time. Quite fun.

R5 and R7 (left from the heatsink) show me 3 and 10 Ohm.
R1 makes the needle move very slightly between 10k and 1k, it basically stays on the left while it should go from the right, correct?. Had to change the setting from X10 to X1k to get it to move even that far.

The Diode doesn't seem to give me anything. Only if I lower the resistance it bumps very slightly for a second, but I guess that might be caused by some leftover currents or so. The meter reacted though when I accidently touched the resistor, but only when I connected the right leg of the Diode and the left leg of the resistor. I tried with both ends of the multimeter, same reaction.

Couldn't get much from the capacitors since their legs aren't easily accessible with the exception of the right one (C1, which is also covered in that stuff).

I tested all parts without detaching them.

I also have a soldering iron and the basic screwdriver, plier set.


Measuring individual components while they're in the circuit isn't going to tell you what you want. You'd have to draw out the circuit diagram and calculate what the resistances ought to be. Also it's pretty rare for resistors to fail without visible burn marks. More likely it's the semiconductor (triac?) under the heatsink or bad contacts in one of the relays. You did change the fuse right?


Seems cool but I wouldn't fuarrrk with it out of fear of accidentally hurting someone with electronic medical devices.

Does anyone know the legality of electronic weapons?


The diode should conduct in only one direction. Check conductivity in both (by switching which side you have the power and ground on).

I notice in the rightmost picture that some of the glue looks pretty discolored, possibly due to heat. Under the heat sink you have a high power part, probably a FET which turns on the motor. If it burned out, that could be the cause of the heat.


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I am back!

Couple nights with no sleep and doesnt work.

New design even...

I am not giving up.

Attached is homemade PSC using Laser cutter and some paint. Screw UV exposure through clear plastic sheets!


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I have a Macintosh Color Display I'm trying to get up & running, but I've been putting it off because I'm scared as fuarrrk of discharging CRTs. The hsync/vsync leads in the cable are busted, and I can hear capacitors sizzling when I turn it on, but I haven't busted it open yet.


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Another cozy desk >>761


Get a long stick, like a handle for a shovel, duct tape a screwdriver to the end of it and sort the caps out.
It won't be pretty, and you'll probably piss yourself, but it'll get the job done.

Also, make sure the stick is made out of wood for obvious reasons


I would be surprised that there won't be any bleeding resistors in parallel to the HV caps. I'd just grab a pair of thick rubber gloves and discharge manually using a screwdriver if there aren't any. If there are tough, just wait for one to two days and you should be good.

It's good tough to have respect for HV. Just don't go all naked handed into there and you should be fine.


I have no experience with DIY electronics whatsoever and I was thinking of building my own bicycle computer using an arduino.
Is that a suitable beginner project to get into electronics?


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Well, Arduino is 90% programing and 10% actual electronics, so yeah, you wont have many problems with the electronics part, wiring the modules and so on, documentation is easily available.
I guess you'll only need to use a hall effect sensor or a magnetic switch to measure the revolutions of the wheel, so there's no complex circuitry involved.


I would love you to death if you wrote this


>no copy of Grob's Basic Electronics posted in the thread

You poor, sad, sorry souls. Have a pdf. If you are new and getting started, it's a great read.


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I built a Nixie clock like 5 years ago using an Arduinix kit. I didn't even know how to solder when I got all the shit. Still sits on my desk and tells me the time, gobs of solder all over the place and "what the fuck were you even thinking" wiring with the Arduino development board hanging off the back like a tumor.

My brother always liked it though. I decided to use some of my newfound EE degree skills to make a Nixie clock for him that I can be proud of. None of this kit nonsense, and definitely none of that Arduino nonsense. The circuit is about 75% finished, just need to figure out what kind of chip I want to use for the 12V to 2.2V step down converter that will feed the MSP430 chip I'm running. Probably throw in a crystal so it keeps time better too. This is the first time I've ever used circuit schematic/PCB layout software so I don't know wtf I'm really doing and both the schematic and the board layout are a fucking mess. Tried a few autorouting tests and I think I'm going to add in another driver chip (those two vertical ICs) so it comes out cleaner.

Once it's done I'm going to go all out and etch it into a copper plated board, fuck with some UV curing soldermask, and screw it into some kind of nice looking wooden base.

And this is what I'm doing instead of studying for final exams tomorrow.


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>there is another Lain into Nixies...

Come join us! https://telegram.me/joinchat/B5gPrAi7EXEHlVmN3hYSsQ

We can compare Nixie clock *wink wink*

Just finished writing the firmware for my new board.




I've never used that before. Are you sure it's not a botnet?


What kind of microprocessor are you using? I spent a semester using MSP430's in an embedded systems class and really grew to like them, but their whole non-standard 3.3V or 2.2V power supply deal is kind of a pain in the ass when everything else on the planet runs on 5V.


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> Telegram is a cloud-based mobile and desktop messaging app with a focus on security and speed.

Secure enough that over 25 Lains talk together daily?

Using a ESP8226 for the current one I am working on. Time sync and getting outside temperature in on the list of features I am implementing so WiFi made sense.


>I've never used that before. Are you sure it's not a botnet
The client side is gpl3, the crypto they use is weird (nobody told them to never run your own crypto), unfortunately the group chats are not encrypted and the server side is proprietary.
You can use a throwaway phone number or any landline number (public phone booth should work) to register.
It's not perfect at all but it can be used on any platform, the community is active and there are interesting people to talk to.

Sorry for being off topic.


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Are you still alive? Come and join us already.

Implemented all the basic functions, now all is left is the WiFi stuff.

-Time sync
-Outside temperature


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Yeah I'm still here. Haven't done much because I decided to switch to an Atmega16 instead of MSP430. Still waiting for the development board to arrive in the mail so I can play with it. 5V for all the logic, enough GPI/O pins so I don't even need to multiplex the tubes. Also working on final exams and preparations for moving into a new apartment, so everything is still in the schematic and board phase anyways.

What do you think of the "for my brother Anon" message etched with copper? Trying to really personalize it and make it look cool for him. It'd be really neat if I could figure out how to import a jpeg or png image onto the board and have some kind of military insignia etched into it too (he's in the military). Or maybe I should just put "Anon" straight up without any message.


Just use the user script "import-bitmap.ulp" with a monochrome bitmap and fiddle with the settings.

Tip: import the image onto a dedicated layer first and then use the change tool to bring it to another layer.


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Hello! Im not sure if its ok to ask for help here but w/e

New to electronics, and ive decided i want to get into it. any way my question is how would i go about moving somthing forward and back accross a bar or a tube type thing. Would i use a rachet and pinion? what are my options. Pic related is my sweet cad drawing ;)


Never mind, I looked some stuff up and a threaded bar and motor seems to do the job I was looking for.


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After raging hard, I threw a bricked powerbrick against the wall.

Judging now from the interior, is this a counterfeit IBM charger?
Nobody would be that stupid to put no insulation between the horrible
cheap pots and the shielding plate.

Anyway, the case is still nice. I'm playing with the idea to build a powerbank with removable cells.
What are some core-features which are nice to have? Multiple USB charging ports are a given.

Should I attempt to make it more elaborate with standard-duty lithium rechargeables and a variable output using a boost-converter? Most of the components could be salvaged that way, thinking (coupled) inductors, mostly diodes, or even some optos if lucky.
This would theoretically be handy as an emergency backup to my thinkpad using the 19VDC barrel jack. Given that the maximum drain would be something along 1.8A it might just work.

Also I'd use it mostly for powering stupid gadgets like a portable soldering iron or something using a sbc.


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I just finished my first small project in a while, putting an LED inside my fridge.

It's mainly a test for future projects; eventually I want to do biohacking with cultures of bacteria, and I'd like to be able to control the temperature of my fridge and the humidity when storing samples. But for now I'm just putting in an LED and seeing if it will stick and continue operating.

My soldering iron and wallet are both broke, so I had to use sugru to hold the leads together. This means the connection is bit faulty so bumping the led causes it to flicker. The upside is that it securely mounts the LED to the wall of the fridge and waterproofs the connections a bit.

The resistor gets a bit warm, but it doesn't exceed its power rating, and the fridge should take the heat away pretty quickly.

The next step (once I can afford a soldering iron and extra microcontroller) is to hack into the little temperature controller on the upper left and see if I can replace it with a digital pot.

Apologies for the low quality pictures.


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The LED in the fridge is a great idea. I might build myself a red/orange one.
Question tough, with what voltage are you powering your light? Just curious.

For an intermediate I'd suggest you get a little dev-board like a teensy and a breadboard, along with the necesary components. I know honeywell has good eval-kits for sensors measuring humidity and temerature, but for diving in head first I'd look out for an I²C-solution like the LM35. For switching, I'd recommend a relay with a good enough rating to switch the component that cools your box. Judging from the size, it's some sort of peltier/seebeck element, so you'd want something the likes of 12/24V on the switching side and 5/3.3V on the coil side. Since the box has a natural lag-time of cooling down/heating up, the control theory is easy to figure out.

When you cobbled together your first prototype, nothing's got to stop you soldering it onto a breadboard PCB, and surely until then you have just the right amount of money to buy a good soldering iron. Trust me on the second part, my judgement was poor initially, for 60$ I bought a Chinese soldering station and I regret I didn't wait until I could afford a beginner's Weller or similar.

Good luck, and don't ever give up on your future plans.
Even if other's may call you mad for studying bacteria next to your workdesk.


> with what voltage are you powering your light
5V. The LED has a voltage drop of ~3V and a forward current of ~80 mA. The LED is actually blindingly bright when viewed top-down, I'm not even pushing it to its actual forward current.

> dev-board

I have a raspberry pi ATM and several breadboards; but obviously that's not my permanent solution. I'll read up on the teensy since I've heard good reviews about it elsewhere. I haven't played with I2C at all, hopefully it's as easy as SPI.

The fridge probably has a relay itself somewhere in there, so I might just need to remove the circuitry from the coil end and stick a transistor on it. If the coil end is rated too high (which it probably is) it'll be simplest to just replace the relay.

And, thanks for the advice about the soldering iron. My first one (the one that's now broken) was a $1 turd from some hobby store, and it lasted me like 3 years though it didn't perform well. Do you think $10 is reasonable for a simple plug-in model? I don't need a station or temp control.


oh, and I forgot to mention, the fridge uses Freon or whatever coolant is legal nowadays. I dunno whether the fridge uses a peltier or just compresses the shit. It sounds like it's compressing it, but either way I'm gonna have a look behind it and see.


so cool. but where to start? how do you even make circuits. how do you know what to do when? i cant get my head around it.


Learn the fundamentals.

Take shit apart.

Get a soldering iron and experiment with components.


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Circuit bending is a good start if you are into music.

It's not unlike programming, the most you can make of it depends on what your intention is. Find something that bugs you, and modify it to your need.

I have fond memories of modding my PC in the early 2000, you could say it was physical ricing. That's where I started.

One other thing would be to watch some videos on the subject.
EEVblog is caulk full of great videos on fundamentals.
Other recommendations are AppliedScience and for reading DangerousPrototypes is a promoter of good blog posts.

You can also check out Ben Heck if you are into 20min infomercials for Farnell, but personally I watch it to scream and laugh at the monitor rather.


The best strategy is to reuse as much of the original as possible, so that would be no problem I imagine.

Also if you go the pi route, you'd also be able to link it to your network. Would be handy to check on it via ssh. Hell, you could even attach a webcam, like the MIT guys did with their coffeepot.

On a side note, it also has an I2C on the GPIO.

For the soldering iron, I still insist you get at least a station some day. I'll let the video do the convincing:

TL;DV: Temperature control and >>exchangeable tips<<.


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You guys have a telegram chat? Shut I've been looking for some m8's to talk with. What's it called?


see the link >>1996


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I could really help you design this thing, join us already.


As for the text printed in copper, I have done it with logos and such, works well but you need to make sure you use a good printer.

Or a laser cutter like I do. (If you have access to one I highly recommend it, I cacn describe the method if you want. And no, its not etching the copper directly with the laser. Took me months to get right but works very well)

Working on a PSU once again >>966 >>1686

>opeRaptor 2015-08-11

>opeRaptor 2016-02-23



Is here anyone that uses Electronics as a tool for something "bigger" like Synthetic Biology and/or Chemistry?


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I tried to make Nitric acid with my high voltage power supply made with a flyback transformer, it worked to some extent, but it was quite inefficient, that's all.
Pics are the first test I made, but I made a crude setup with an arc chamber, an air pump and a tube with some water to catch the nitrogen dioxide and transform it into nitric acid.

I also made an electric cauterizer which relied on high frequency high voltage rather than a hot wire to seal a wound. It probably is much less painful.


That is amazing!

I dream of making my own Nixie tubes and seal is always a major concern!

Di you document this at all? Interested in power supply design as well.


can you post schematics for the cauterizer? It sounds really neat, good job on it


Are you sure you're quoting the right post? Here's my high voltage power supply just in case.
Making your own nixie tubes seems to be quite hard since you need a lot of equipment and materials, the stems stems to be the most difficult part, I think you have to use a special wire to make a good seal.
I used to watch a channel called Dalibor Farny, he has made a small nixie tube factory, but he doesn't explains much.
Glasslinger also made some attempts, but that old dude gives me the creeps.

It was just some kind of high voltage high frequency coil with a small ferrite core, I can't remember the circuit.


Aren't those pretty dam dangerous?
What do you use them for?


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Finally finished soldering my prototype gaussian pulse shaper onto protoboard.
I am probably out of my mind, since for some reason I only used SMT passives on the backside.
Never again…

Hopefully the noise due to poor soldering won't kill my signal too much.

On a related note, has anyone a personal recommendation for a b/w laserprinter which produces good toner transfers?
Or should I go with either OSHpark, dirtypcb or some similar service entirely?


File: 1468750773758.png (144 KB, 151x200, pcb.jpg)

Even the cheapest laser printer will do fine. I used Xerox Phaser 3010, with cheap toner from ebay and pcb turned out quite well. The key is in paper. I tried several different types from parchment paper, paper from various advertisements, plain paper... Best one turned to be from some brochures that were given to us at the stat of the semester. When preparing paper you must be careful not to contaminate printing surface with oils from your hand, so wear gloves and thoroughly clean pcb with acetone before transferring the print. Whether you should use pcb fab house depends on how thin traces are present in your design and if you want to make your pcb double sided. I don't recommend using toner transfer for pcbs with traces that are thinner than 0.7mm - 0.5mm as there is greater chance that toner won't adhere well to the surface.


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Guys this looks really cool and I want to learn how to do all this. Pls help a newbie out, where do I begin in understanding how to do this?
Masturbating over the hot pics in here tbh. Pic unrelated.


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Come chat with other Lains about /ohm/ and /diy/!




Use Signal.


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Who would have known that a con badge would eventually have a screen, WiFi and run microPython?


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If I work on a CRT (as I have had to do more and more lately) I just let it sit for about a month while shorting the power connector and hitting the power button every few days. Usually after that it is relatively safe, but to be sure I short everything inside anyway when I have it open. I have had to replace the flyback transformer on about a dozen monitors now, as that seems to be what is the first to go on the modern-ish (early-mid 2000's) ones I have repaired so far. Most were not mine but I did get paid for doing them.

As for my own projects, I have not really done a whole lot lately but I do have many I will get around to eventually. I have an old AT psu from my DOS gaming machine I want to get working again instead of using the ATX to AT adapter I made. I need to get around to replacing the caps on the same computer's soundblaster card, just have not had the time lately. I have a G3 imac I need to figure out why it wont power on anymore (I suspect the power supply section popped a cap since 'nothing' happens when I push the power button) but it is a pain to take apart and put back together again let alone repair. I have a bunch of other small electronics projects that I simply have not had enough time for lately as well.


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nearly finished with my single 12au7 tube headphone amp...

It was pretty daunting at first but when i found schematic and stopped going by the pictures i realized it was very simple c:

As an electronics noob i would say this is a great project to get to know what there is about electronics.

link: http://diyaudioprojects.com/Solid/12AU7-IRF510-LM317-Headamp/

feel free to ask qs about my shoddy soldering :^)


Moved to >>>/tech/26577.


Moved to >>>/tech/26678.


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I made this h bridge, it works but is a little bit too weak for most motors, some motors can run on it tho.
It's the most basic h bridge circuit I could find, using just 4 resistors and 4 bc547 transistors, just look at schematics online and leave out all components I didn't mention.


Nice, although 547's won't get you too far, with 100mA of absolute maximum current they'll probably fry quite rapidly, use 2N2222 transistors for a top load of 1 amp, higher than that and you'll probably want to use MOSFETS, like the IRF540.
I would also add some diodes across the transistors to get rid of inductive spikes.


Thanks for the advice, though I already know these problems.
I just wanted to make a functional h bridge from stuff I had lying around, and I didn't have 4 mosfets, nor 4 identical diodes that would've worked


can you make plasma speakers out of that?


>cyberpunk based website
>no /cyb/


Maybe that's because cyberpunk is the theme of the whole site.


Random medium question; Has anyone here tried using a fridge as a coolant device? Tips, warnings?


i've used it as a coolant device for food
it was rather effective.

on a more serious note: what do you wanna cool?


As in, repurposing it to cool something else? It's apparently possible, but pretty difficult - you'll need to cut the system to remove it from the fridge which means you'll need to draw a vacuum and refill it later.

If you have low demands for cooling peltier cells might be able to do it with purely solid state mechanisms, or if you need a proper cooling system car AC systems might be a little easier to repurpose.

Fridge pumps do make nice silent air compressors though.


the theme of the site is Lain, hence the lainchan...


File: 1473902385347.png (27.21 KB, 200x119, USBwarmercooler1.jpg)

I think he's talking about converting a fridge into an AC unit?
Well, the tubing should need to be purged, new tubing would have to be welded (to place the evaporator outside the room) and refilled again, and the compressor isn't probaby made to deal with that kind of work load.
I wrote this after realizing what he was talking about, but I'll post it anyway:
I repurposed the peltier plate from a mini fridge to make a mug chiller/warmer, abandoned the project halfway through. I might retake it, since having a plate with controlled temperature can be quite useful.


I was actually planing to cut the fridge case around the freezing system, to avoid dealing with isobutane loss. Yes, I'm that lazy.
the workload is an issue I completely overlooked.


whats the easiest way to connect a flyback to something? (hey you said any question)


>connect a flyback to something
You mean driving it?
I've seen people using a CFL power supply to drive a flyback, it seems to work, but I guess it is unreliablle and dangerous. I've also seen driver circuits with just a couple of high wattage resistors and a power transistor.
I'd stick to the 50% duty cycle variable frequency 555 oscillator with mosfet of choice.


I've bought some rgb LEDs, will probably make a display.
I killed some of em tho while soldering, I used my soldering gun instead of a proper iron since I couldn't find it.


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Oops, forgot a pic


File: 1480453670939.png (9.67 MB, 200x200, Electrical Engineering- Principles and Applications, Sixth Edition.pdf)


>I've bought some rgb LEDs
I'd say that 100 LEDs (maybe more? can't see edge of board in pics) is quite a lot of LEDs.


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Yeah it is, I've now soldered all of em
(Yeah I know I need to cut the data lines in between din and dout)


What's your estimate of the total cost of production for one of these? Last time I checked nixie tubes were expensive cause of the high demand and limited supply


Bigclivedotcom is also a great channel. He's a big guy.


I'm not that guy, but:
nixie tubes are only going to get more expensive, unless someone starts massproducing them

on another note tho, making a clock yourself shouldnt be very expensive

a friend of mine made a pcb of a power supply design commonly used for nixies (or for a ton of other soykaf), and if everything works out we'll start selling them either as kits or as finished power supplies (we might also just release the kicad files), should be pretty cheap.

another friend of mine (operaptor) is designing a power supply specifically for nixies, but i don't know when that'll be finished

for now, i don't own any nixies, but the first power supply is also usable for vfd tubes, which you can use as a cheaper "replacement". (they work rather differently, so it's not a one-on-one replacement, but it allows for a similar look in clocks)

That first friend has also designed a driver pcb for some specific VFD tube, with minimal adaptation of the footprint it should be useable for other vfds too.

If you're ok with the clock being a vfd clock, everything you'd need is cheaply available and, ignoring the MOQ for pcbs, your material cost should be in the pricerange of 20-50 bucks (it's pretty customizable and the price depends on what you're gonna do with it)

if you want more info, please ask


File: 1483210221257.png (8.83 MB, 113x200, nixie.gif)

>another friend of mine (operaptor) is designing a power supply specifically for nixies, but i don't know when that'll be finished

Finished! 5v in 180v out~

Next is feedback loop to do current control.


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Currently working on a tiny USB controller for kshootmania/sound voltex. Atmega32u4 for MCU, Sanwa buttons, rotary encoders, and neopixel rgb LEDs for button backlighting. Planning on sandwiching it between a bunch of laser cut acrylic, like the Ergodox.

I'm using pcbmodE, which gives a lot of freedom for design (all done in Inkscape). I'm hoping to come up with some neat designs on the front/back using all the layers (silk/gold plated pads/soldermask), but don't know what I'll do yet.


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the engineer in me wants to scream in agony
seeing those crazy traces, but whoa that's really pretty

for the art, how about adding those 4 tracks in perspective (like in the game) on either side using a combination of layers?


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More like OCD than engineer - smooth traces are better for circuitry because they add less stray inductance or capacitance. 45°-angled regular tracing is a compromise. There are CAD products that use such tracing topology. Pic related is an example.


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Huh, sounds like you are right on signal integrity.

Guess I still have a subconscious habit of considering a design for PCB milling of all things rather than electrical characteristics, now thinking about it. Even down to clearances and trace width.


Interesting to note that it is the same wayin engineering - any structuctural abruption is a stress concentrator:
Explains why human bones are so arching and weirdly smooth like from H.R. Giger drawings - it is simply more durable. Though in engineering it's not always feasible. Milling at right angles is many times faster and cheaper.

Are you planning to make PCB at home or order it?


Buckminster Fuller used to call it "Ephemeralization", doing more with less. He may not have been talking specifically about the curves that appear when you optimise structures, but a e s t h e t i c s are often a side-effect of the process of ephemeralisation.


As Bucky used to say, "When I am working on a problem, I never think about beauty but when I have finished, if the solution is not beautiful, I know it is wrong."


so I've got a dead mobo now, any fun projects I could do with it or should I just take all the goodies off and chuck it.


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Did you try baking it at 385°F for a couple of minutes? I always wanted to try if refreshing all the reflow connections would make a difference for a borked motherboard.

If it's not worth the pursuit, I'd say chuck it after removing all the good stuff.
It's what I do with functional mobos usually,
because sometimes you'd need a cap, buzzer or a coin cell holder more desperately than an old piece of hardware clogging inventory space.


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What the fuarrrk does karen even do on Ben's show? shes there in the beginning and then disappears until the end. I just skipped through his recent n64 episode and Ben looks like soykaf.

I love watching bigclive and AVE.


Yeah. The shape of the traces doesn't matter as much as you'd think, especially in a low frequency design with fat traces like this. It's also the sharp angles you need to worry about, but even that's not terribly relevant until you get way up there.

The track idea seems good; might go with that. I'm waffling on whether to do something artsy to go with the traces or to go with something more "cool" like other third party controllers.

Probably just order it out. I'd like to have some nice ENIG plating for the art, and it's a rather large board to etch and plate at home.


mikeselectricstuff for really esoteric teardowns and Photonicinduction for insane-Kent-man-with-multi-kilowatt-electricals too.


Ive gotta say, I am very interested in noise/industrial music and im and EE student. Any advice on where to start? I was thinking just start with building amplifiers and oscillators, and from there, cool sounds will come.


You can for example try starting with the logic noise series on hackaday:

first one:


Most of the people in this thread are giving bad advice.


So do something about it.

I hate to be an asshole about this, but... it's about experimenting, learning, sharing, and contributing. Most of us here (correct me if I'm wrong) are talking from personal experience and what's worked for them, or what they've seen that works for others even if they haven't actually done it yet. If you have experience that contradicts that, by all means, say so and tell us about it. But if you're just here to contradict people for kicks without following the spirit of the thread, then it's almost guaranteed that people won't listen to you.


The problem is that I don't think we have that much of electronic professionals, mostly hobbyists and some EE students (like me), who probably don't know all that much about actual electronics, mostly basics and things from their experience.

Though failing is a part of learning too, so until they get some dangerous advices, or something resulting in some kind of bigger damage, then it's probably not that bad.

Though it would be nice if you can, like >>3449 said, "So do something about it."
It's not a fast thread, so if you know your stuff and can at least write some proper clues, then everyone could probably gain some proper knowledge.


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By the way, if any of you guys do end up making a diy through hole or SMD PCB like this, I strongly advise against sharp traces and or 90 degree angles on your traces, like in >>748

These create alot of EMI/noise IN some cases, and depending on your circuit are very detrimental. Also during the etching and transfer process, these corners are easily ruined or break later on.


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What's the best way to prevent devices on the same DC power supply from interfering with each other? In my case, I have a router, a raspi, and a stereo version of the mixer circuit pictured all running on the same 12V supply. The router generates a lot of noise that shows up in the output of the mixer, mostly in the form of a repetitive clicking sound. Ideally I would have a separate supply for the router but I happen to be poor.

I can't really figure out why the noise is happening. The clicking seems to be at the same rate as the flashing of the router LEDs. I guess this is causing the supply voltage the mixer sees to drop somehow? I don't know, and I'm not sure what to do about it. At this point I only understand basic circuit analysis and I've treated power supplies as independent sources.


I figured it out. Putting a 10u cap from the (+) op-amp input to ground stabilizes the bias and gets rid of the noise almost completely.

This article provided some insight:


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Quick update to my SDVX controller- think I've nailed everything down. Added some finishing decals and need to go over the BOM and verify one last time.


I'm working on an Atari Punk Console rn, anyone else done one before? They're supposed to be pretty easy and it's been fun so far.